Ano přívěra má vliv na startovani ..ale pokud ti nedává jiskru tak je ti to muze bejt stejne jedno

mozna ti odeslo cdi ;) nemenil si ho treba zavreny za otevreny cdi? priveru odpoj ta na to nema vliv.. jinak z altiku by ti melo jit. heled kdyz startujes hejbe se ti otackomer??

Colour Uk Go to (Uk)
Black/white Start key
Red/black CDI charge
green masse ground
blue Capteur Ignition timing
Red/white RC valves timing
Black/yellow Spark+tachometer
Green/white Security stand

zkus si prelozit toto:

THE IGNITION BUG

Ignition is composed of a coil with a large black wire on which is screwed a cap, of a CDI unit, of a pair of charging coil in the alternator (about 200V AC), of a impulse coil. What do I have to do if I am broken down? Initially test Front system: check that your plug cap is engaged completely. Watch your plug, if it’s fatty of gasoline you’ve got an ignition problem .A small test will be easy: Put the plug on the cap and flat pose it on the cylinder head, give 2-3 blows of starter
1) If you see sparks on the plug, your ignition seems ok, probably a question of timing (see impulse coil).
2) if not, test in the order the coil and then the alternator.
3) If everything ok your CDI is probably worn , prior of changing it , check your wiring and the connectors
Note : the spark is normally blue , if it’s yellow-red it could be the sign of low charging by the alternator

checking the coil

You need an ohmmeter of good quality and preferably digital (more precise). A coil is an autotransformer with a primary (wire black/yellow and green) and a secondary (the large black wire with the cap)
- Primary 0.1 - 0.3 Ohms
- Secondary with the cap 6500 to 9700 Ohms (bottom inside and a terminal on the coil)
- Secondary without the cap 2700 to 3500 Ohms (unscrew the cap, test middle black and terminal)
The cap has a value ranging between 3000 and 7000 Ohms and to test it is enough to make the 2 measurements above, if you to replace it buy one Bent.

Checking alternator

The measurement of the stator 0.7 Ohms between each yellow (they are coils production of current) and 80 to 180 Ohms between red/black and green (charging coils of CDI). For information: each yellow wire corresponds to 3 coils (poles) in series, the 3 wire yellow are connected in Y as in a three-phase electric system, this is why if you test between 2 yellows you has 6 coils in series (either 6 poles). The stator thus has 9 small poles (3x3) + 2 large poles (CDI charging with 2 reels in series).

Checking impulse coil

ignition is timed by a small coil which creates the releasing current of the CDI THYRISTOR door, this coil has 2 wires blue and green/white , the wire of exit on the alternator are located close to wire of exit of the load. the ohmmeter must indicate to you between 180 and 280 Ohms.

jak nemá vliv? To se pri otoceni klicku otevre jen tak pro prd*l?

na motorce mas cdi coz je zapalovani a ovladani privery coz ovlada priveru. to kdyz odpojis muzes si nechat priveru otevrenou a ochcat tak zavrenou jednotku ktera otevira priveru nad 7000 jen na 70%. sice se zhorsi spodek ale vrsek bude velice dobrej..

nebo se to da oblbnout za par korun taky se zhorsi spodek ale nepatrne a nebo zadraz a to pak funguje jako s otevrenou priverou. cdi umim otevrit

Naposledy editováno 12.06.2011 21:00:04

milion píše: na motorce mas cdi coz je zapalovani a ovladani privery coz ovlada priveru. to kdyz odpojis muzes si nechat priveru otevrenou a ochcat tak zavrenou jednotku ktera otevira priveru nad 7000 jen na 70%. sice se zhorsi spodek ale vrsek bude velice dobrej..

nebo se to da oblbnout za par korun taky se zhorsi spodek ale nepatrne a nebo zadraz a to pak funguje jako s otevrenou priverou. cdi umim otevrit

jak ji odpojim?

po jizde nech moto na volnobeh a vypni klicek. privera zustane na Hi (u kolecka co taha za lanka) a dole u valce to musi bejt presne na levym zarezu (+-0.3mm). Potom pod nadrzi pod karbec je ovladani privery kabely vedou po levy strane do takove krabicky kde jsou schovane konektory - jeden je tusim zvlast svetle zelenej (uz je to dlouho moc si to nepamatuju) a jeden nebo dva konektory. Odpoj ty co vedou z rj privery k moturku co taha za lanka. Pak zustane furt otevrena

Naposledy editováno 12.06.2011 21:05:41

otočim klíčkem a elektro moturek co hybe priveroou je na LOW a to tam je ikdyz je klicek vypnutý a moturek jen bzuci jako by se chtel jesrte nekam hybat. kdyz startuju tak otacky nic myslim proste nehodií jiskru :/

DuckerCZ píše: Ano přívěra má vliv na startovani ..ale pokud ti nedává jiskru tak je ti to muze bejt stejne jedno

- no ale zda otevirani a zavirani privery nema vliv na házení jiskry protoze stavado cívky jde a mam i jinou ale proste civka to nehodí dáll ...

zkus merak dej ho na rozsah 1000V a pirpoj na vstup do civky.. uvidis kolik to da

Mě zase teď dělá to,že nastartuju ..jedu kousek a chcipne to jako bych zamacknul chcipak ..nejaky napady co stim je? chcipak rozdelanej ..elektrika prosla ..vypada to bez problemu ..fakt uz nevim

milion píše: mozna ti odeslo cdi ;) nemenil si ho treba zavreny za otevreny cdi? priveru odpoj ta na to nema vliv.. jinak z altiku by ti melo jit. heled kdyz startujes hejbe se ti otackomer??

Colour Uk Go to (Uk)
Black/white Start key
Red/black CDI charge
green masse ground
blue Capteur Ignition timing
Red/white RC valves timing
Black/yellow Spark+tachometer
Green/white Security stand

zkus si prelozit toto:

THE IGNITION BUG

Ignition is composed of a coil with a large black wire on which is screwed a cap, of a CDI unit, of a pair of charging coil in the alternator (about 200V AC), of a impulse coil. What do I have to do if I am broken down? Initially test Front system: check that your plug cap is engaged completely. Watch your plug, if it’s fatty of gasoline you’ve got an ignition problem .A small test will be easy: Put the plug on the cap and flat pose it on the cylinder head, give 2-3 blows of starter
1) If you see sparks on the plug, your ignition seems ok, probably a question of timing (see impulse coil).
2) if not, test in the order the coil and then the alternator.
3) If everything ok your CDI is probably worn , prior of changing it , check your wiring and the connectors
Note : the spark is normally blue , if it’s yellow-red it could be the sign of low charging by the alternator

checking the coil

You need an ohmmeter of good quality and preferably digital (more precise). A coil is an autotransformer with a primary (wire black/yellow and green) and a secondary (the large black wire with the cap)
- Primary 0.1 - 0.3 Ohms
- Secondary with the cap 6500 to 9700 Ohms (bottom inside and a terminal on the coil)
- Secondary without the cap 2700 to 3500 Ohms (unscrew the cap, test middle black and terminal)
The cap has a value ranging between 3000 and 7000 Ohms and to test it is enough to make the 2 measurements above, if you to replace it buy one Bent.

Checking alternator

The measurement of the stator 0.7 Ohms between each yellow (they are coils production of current) and 80 to 180 Ohms between red/black and green (charging coils of CDI). For information: each yellow wire corresponds to 3 coils (poles) in series, the 3 wire yellow are connected in Y as in a three-phase electric system, this is why if you test between 2 yellows you has 6 coils in series (either 6 poles). The stator thus has 9 small poles (3x3) + 2 large poles (CDI charging with 2 reels in series).

Checking impulse coil

ignition is timed by a small coil which creates the releasing current of the CDI THYRISTOR door, this coil has 2 wires blue and green/white , the wire of exit on the alternator are located close to wire of exit of the load. the ohmmeter must indicate to you between 180 and 280 Ohms.

nic jsem neměnil normal byla nastartovaná a chcípla a pak najednou už nehodila jiskru měnil jsem cívku za jinou a k cívce šťáva jde ale jiskra stále žádná. a přívera moturek at je tam klicek otoceny ci ne tak je na pozici low. a proste jiskru ne a ne hodit

DuckerCZ> neproblikne ti cidlo stojanku? :)

Freestxler.89> civka byla teda i s kabelem a fajfkou ze? svicka nova? jestli jo zkusil bych odpojit priveru a pak uz je posledni vec cdi pokud ti jde stava z altiku

milion píše: DuckerCZ> neproblikne ti cidlo stojanku? :)

To si nestihnu vsimnout ..ale když chci znova nastartovat tak musim prohmatat ty kontakty pod nadrzi

Naposledy editováno 12.06.2011 22:17:36

DuckerCZ> Jo ona se ti po otočení klíčku otevře..nastartuješ a ona je pořád otevřená..až od 2500-3500 ot. se zavře a od 7000 ot. se zas otevře

Lukas512> Koukam,ze jezdis pirellky ..jak ses spokojenej? dneska jsem je objednal

DuckerCZ> zkus pod sedackou prostrikat kontakty co jdou do cdi, hlavne ten jeden kablik co je vlast. pak bych prostrikal pripadne vsechny konektory co jades pod nadrzi a zkouknul jestli nekde neni zlomenej nebo prosoupanej drat

Vsechny kontakty prošlí,prostrikany kontaktolem ..pak jsem mel nastartovano a zkousel ohybat kabely a vse OK ..jen kdyz se rozjedu tak se to stane :/

DuckerCZ> Zadní sjetá k hraně takže hodně dobrý akorat než se zajedou tak kloužou no jako každý nový pneumatiky

Jo a k tématu zkus se ještě jednou podívat na tu fajfku kámoš to měl že vyjel z baráku a po 400m mu to chciplo.. hfajfka nedrzela na svicce tak koupil za 35,- novou a problém vyřešen

Naposledy editováno 13.06.2011 21:20:32

Lukas512 píše: Jo a k tématu zkus se ještě jednou podívat na tu fajfku kámoš to měl že vyjel z baráku a po 400m mu to chciplo.. hfajfka nedrzela na svicce tak koupil za 35,- novou a problém vyřešen

to je k mímu problemu nebo k jeho?

DuckerCZ> zkus jestli to na tý svíčce dobře drží ta fajfka..

Edit: aha já myslel žes to založil ty tak sory

Naposledy editováno 13.06.2011 21:30:20

Lukas512 píše: DuckerCZ> zkus jestli to na tý svíčce dobře drží ta fajfka..

Edit: aha já myslel žes to založil ty tak sory

to bych mohl a co stim musel udelat kamos aby to zase jelo?

koupil si novou fajfku .. ta stará mu totiž nedržela na svíčce tak jel a po chvili to vypadlo a nejelo..

Lukas512 píše: koupil si novou fajfku .. ta stará mu totiž nedržela na svíčce tak jel a po chvili to vypadlo a nejelo..

ja ji mam tak mesic starou